Starting seeds indoors is an excellent off-season garden winter project. We'll offerstep by step tips and techniques on how to grow plants from seeds indoors, seed germination, purchasing seeds, seed starting lights, growing mediums, watering, fertilizing, transplanting, and more.

Gardeners have grown plants from seeds for years. Several reasons they do this include cost; it’s much less expensive to plant seeds rather than purchase mature plants from nurseries that are retailed to the public in the form of one, five, or ten gallon container plants.

Watching the germination of seeds can be very satisfying to watch. Why lose out on seeing this little miracle of nature as it happens. It can be very rewarding and by involving the whole family, children will find the winter project great entertainment and a valuable learning lesson.

Availability is also a great motivator for growing your plants from seeds. Many times the exotic or perfect plant that you’ve seen in magazines are just not available at local nurseries, but can be ordered or purchased in seed packets.

Plants that have not been treated with tender loving care many times end up on the sale rack at the local home center or department store Garden Department, and are very tempting to purchase because of the reduced price. I’ve fallen victim to this situation myself and more than once have gotten the plant home only to find out at planting time that it’s completely root bound, and some of those yellowing leaves barely clinging to the plant indicated a less than healthy plant.

So why not start out with healthy seeds and be assured that the plant you end up with is completely healthy, well cared for, and disease free rather than force fed in a greenhouse and moved to the sale table in hopes of making a quick sale before shock sets in.

The time spent in starting the seedling process is very minimal. It involves filling a few flats or containers with a growing medium, dropping in the seeds, watering, and watching your garden grow. This of course is oversimplified and be assured however that a few considerations will make the difference in having fun and that of getting frustrated.


Choosing the Right Seed Variety

If you’re a beginner at starting seeds indoors, be sure to do a little research and choose those varieties that are easier to grow from seeds. You’ll quickly find out if you have the patience required to grow the more difficult seeds, nurture through difficult germination and transplanting processes only to find out special growing mediums or fertilizers were called for in the beginning, and now those hours of watching, watering, and babying were wasted as all of those seedlings didn’t survive.


Purchasing Seeds

When purchasing seeds, one thought should stay at the top of your priority list, “Quality, Quality, Quality”. Seeds are the same as purchasing plants in that you need to be sure to only get them from reputable dealers. Why take a chance on bargain seeds when you’ll be spending weeks of nurturing seeds that were not well cared for and not healthy in the beginning. My advice is to spend a few more pennies and have confidence that your seeds are at least healthy to start with.



Research and Have a Plan

As a winter project, you usually have enough time to devote to developing a plan and researching information that will make this a successful garden come springtime. I’m not talking about going back to school and getting a degree in Seed Propagation, but to spend a few hours in planning your garden and browse your favorite magazines for just the right plants that you’d like to start with to create the garden you’ve always wanted. This will also save time and money in the end.

A good place to start is to know what Hardiness Zone you live in. I’ve included a Zone map to make it easy for you. This will tell you if the plants will eventually survive in your area once they are in the ground and on their own.

Once you’ve decided which zone you live in, simply match the list of plants that grow well in your zone. Next choose those plants that are available in seed form. This will be accomplished by visiting your local nursery, browsing seed catalogs, or if your really fortunate, visit a reputable seed grower in your area that offers retail. Also online resources can be helpful. Most likely you’ll end up using a combination of resources which will give you more flexibility in adding more plant varieties to your list.

With your list of seed varieties in hand,  be sure to purchase or order them right away. Many times mail order can take several weeks to receive and you don’t want to have to wait and reduce your sowing and germination time because your seeds haven’t arrived yet.


Space Considerations

The next consideration is available space. Depending on how many flats you’ll be planting plus growing accessories ( containers, watering accessories, fertilizers, growing mediums, lights, etc.), will determine where you’ll place your seeds to begin with. Remember, if you plan on transplanting into larger containers before moving outdoors, you’ll need additional space to accommodate them as well.

Do not overlook any unused space. A shelving unit when set up correctly works very well. Closets, storage cabinets, kitchen cabinets, book cases, workshop counters, open floor space, unused spare bedrooms, and laundry room counters all will work just fine. Also countertops and don't forget any windowsills as they provide natural light. You’ll be amazed how creative you can become when finding available space for your new project.


Seed Containers

Containers that would be suitable to start your seeds don’t have to be expensive. You can easily improvise using things around the house. The only requirements that are really important are that they are able to be cleaned and can provide good drainage by punching holes in the bottom. Egg cartons, milk cartons, flower pots of all sizes, and even yogurt containers are just a few examples.

If you’d like to do a planting of more than a few seeds, then seed trays are readily available to purchase.
They allow for the seeds to share the growing medium and will actually grow together. They are very convenient for a large number of plants, easy to fill with growing medium and easy to water.

When considering containers, you should have an idea of how your seedlings will be transplanted. If you use single pots, plastic seed trays, or any nonbiodegradable containers, you’ll have to remove the plant along with the root ball and growing medium. If you use biodegradable containers such as peat pots or containers that are porous and will break down once transplanted, the pot / container will go in the ground without disturbing the plant at all. This could be very important if the variety of plant is very prone to shock if disturbed at all.


Seed Growing Mediums

If your seeds are started in individual containers, they should be planted in a soil-based growing medium that will last the duration of the indoor growing process. A standard commercial potting soil mixed with vermiculite would be fine.

Seeds that are started in a soil-less growing medium will require transplanting to a soil-based medium before being moved outdoors. It has been found that they also will require regular feedings later on as the plant matures.

An advantage of commercial, ready mixed growing medium is the ease of use without having to mix ingredients, as well as the concern of sterilization. For the purpose of keeping things simple and having a high rate of success, a bag of ready mixed growing medium is the best way to go. Using this simple method will accommodate the majority of plants and varieties. For the purpose of this article, the information provided will be successful for the majority of plants. If you do plan on raising such plants as Orchids, Succulents, or Wildflowers, from seeds, specialized soil mixtures will be required.


Sowing Seeds

Before sowing seeds it is a good idea to soak and or chip the seeds if required. Many times the seed casings will be very hard and by chipping the seed casings and soaking themfor 24 hours prior to sowing it will greatly speed up the germination process.

As previously mentioned, be sure your containers are exceptionally clean so as not to put your healthy seeds and sterile growing medium into a disease infected container. A good household solution of nine parts water to one part bleach; scrubbing and rinsing well will do a good job. Place newspaper in the bottom of the container to cover the drainage holes. This will prevent the loss of your potting mix but will allow for the water to drain.

Most soil-less growing media is difficult to moisten, but must be damp prior to sowing your seeds. This can be accomplished by placing it in a leak proof bag and adding water. Mix it well by hand until the media is completely absorbed. It will be ready to use when damp but not dripping wet.            

Fill the Containers:

• Seed Flats: If you will be transplanting prior to moving outdoors, you can use a soil- less nutrient-free growing medium. If they will remain in the flats until moved outside, a potting mix or soil-based medium can be used.

• Single Containers: It is best to use a soil-based medium, filling to ½ “ from the top on large containers and 1/4 “ from the top on small containers.

Label Your Seed Containers

Keep your containers or flats labeled and organized by dates of germination,date of planting and name or variety of the seeds. Do not mix seeds that fall several weeks apart among their germination dates. This will assure your not having to disturb adjacent plants and transplanting only some plants while trying to nurture the rest for several more weeks.

 The sowing of seeds varies but I’ve included some general guidelines to follow if this information is not available where you purchase your seeds.

• Cover seeds with growing medium to 3 times the diameter of the seed. (e.g. a seed measuring 1/4  diameter will require a sowing depth of 3/4 .  3 X 1/4 = 3/4).

•  Small to medium size seeds can be either sprinkled directly from the pack or sown individually on top of the soil. Cover with growing medium to the required depth.

• Large seeds may be sown one to each small pot, or in rows when using flats.

• Very large seeds (e.g. Beans) should be sown in separate pots.

• Seedlings that are known not to transplant well should be sown in peat pots or other biodegradable pots that can be planted directly in the ground.

Watering Your Seeds

At this point, water the seeds only if necessary. If you use any premoistened medium, you shouldn’t have to water yet. When watering do not allow the soil surface to get beyond a “moist” state. If you consider it “wet”, it’s too much water.

It’s best to warn you of a disease called “Damping-Off”. Considered a fungal disease, it is caused by too much moisture and not enough ventilation. It can completely ruin your entire seed bed in a single day. Visually, the seedlings will have green leaves, but the base of the stem will be blackened and shriveled. There are fungicides that can be applied that will help prevent damping-off and at the time of the initial watering is when it should be applied.

To water, several techniques can be used. You can stand the containers in a try of water until the top of the seed bed becomes damp or moist, but as previously mentioned, not to the point of being wet. Misting the seed bed from above will also work at this point.

One of the best ways to water is by using a capillary method. It uses a fabric matting and allows for controlled watering and prevents over watering. The highly absorbent material is laid out with one end in a bucket or bowl of water. The seed containers or flats are laid on top of the matting and will only draw enough water from the mat as is required. Using this method, you only need to now be sure the mat is kept moistened. You don’t have to water the seed beds directly.

Once the initial watering and sowing have been accomplished, cover the seed trays or containers in sealed plastic bags. If the germination of the seed requires darkness, simply place in a closet or cabinet. If they require light to germinate, place near a window, but not in direct sunlight. This information will be given on the seed packets.

In either case, for most seeds, a constant temperature range of 65 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit will be ideal. Up to this point, you have basically created your own greenhouse.

                                                       
After Seed Germination

Once you see the small green arms of the seeds breaking through the soil, it’s time to gradually acclimate your seedlings to the environment. Only for short intervals should the plastic covering be lifted, and then only at one corner for a few minutes at a time. The reason for the slow, gradual introduction of air is so the seeds don’t receive a “rush” of air all at once which could cause the dreaded damping-off disease. This process should not take more than a day, ending up with the seed beds or containers completely uncovered.


Seed Starting Lights

Keeping the germination process in a controlled environment is very important. A constant temperature of 60 deg Fahrenheit and 3" to 4" from cool white florescent bulbs is ideal. If possible, set the lights up so they can be adjusted as the height of the seedlings increases. Seed starting lights are the best source to grow seeds indoors. They offer consistent light for a specified amount of time (recommended 15 hours a day) when plugged into an on/off timer. Trying to place seed flats and containers in a sunny window during winter isn’t always possible.

Continue to keep checking the dryness of your seedlings as they continue to grow. Do not allow the surface to completely dry out. Watering in mornings is preferred rather than evenings.


Fertilizing Seedlings

Begin feeding your seedlings as soon as 3 true leaves have developed. The first two leaves you will see on the plant are food storage cells called cotyledons and not true leaves.
Seeds grown in a potting soil should be fertilized with a liquid fertilizer at ½ the manufacturers recommended dose twice a week for the first three weeks, then use full strength once every 10 days.

For seedlings started in soil-less medium, they usually will not require feeding until after transplanted.

Always feed your seedlings after watering.


Thinning and Hardening Off Seedlings

Young seedlings should be thinned as soon as one pair of true leaves have developed. The best way is to trim unwanted seedlings at soil level rather than pulling them out and taking a chance on disturbing surrounding seedlings. Thin them to a 2" space between seedlings.

If transplanting your seedlings to larger containers while still indoors, as before, line the new clean container with newspaper and fill with a nutrient rich potting soil. Gently lift the seedling root ball and all and place gently in its new container. Water by setting the container in a tray of water and letting it absorb the moisture until the surface is damp. Label and mark the seedlings with the variety name and date that they can safely be planted outdoors.

Hardening off is the term used to acclimate your seedlings to the outdoor environment.  This should be done approximately one week before moving and transplanting your seedlings outdoors. Your young seedlings have spent their whole lives in a controlled environment up to this point. This will prepare them for their transition to various temperatures, wind, sun, rain, and all of the outdoor elements. Be sure however not to leave them out at night if frost or too cool temperatures are forecast.  

Move the plants to a shady outdoor area at first. Move them out into the sun for only a few hours at first and increasing the time spent in the sun each day. Keep them well watered during this period, and keep them protected from insects, wildlife, and any other threatening elements.


Garden Design

At this point a word should be mentioned regarding designing your garden. Many considerations referencing types of plants, shrubs, and trees should be designed into a structured plan.If you haven’t designed your garden planting areas or landscaping yet, I invite you to browse our article “Lets Design a Summer Garden” . This informative article will take you through the process step by step and will give you the information needed to plan your garden. It also includes many money-saving tips and techniques, and who doesn’t like saving money?
                                        

Prepare Your Garden for Planting

Several things should be considered if you didn’t already prepare your garden in the previous autumn.

    Test Your Soil pH

    You should have a pH test done for the alkalinity / acidity levels of your soil. They can vary widely not only throughout the United States, but throughout your yard. You certainly don’t want to place your new seedlings into soil that doesn’t offer a nutrient rich environment.

Below I’ve included the standard information that a pH test provides:

    pH            Description

    5.0 - 6.0        Soil is very acid
    6.0 - 7.0        Soil is somewhat acid
    7.0                 Neutral Soil
    7.0 - 8.0        Soil is somewhat alkaline
    8.0 - 9.0        Soil is very alkaline

The range of 6.0 to 7.5 will provide most plants with a good soil to grow in. It’s best to know what an acceptable range is for your seedlings before deciding on your particular seed selection and to know if your soil is within that range. If not, you may want to decide on other plants that are known to flourish in your type of soil, or you will constantly be adding amendments to keep the soil within the preferred pH range.

Your pH test will determine which amendments need to be added. If this wasn’t done already, one week before transplanting, add your amendments as well as a layer of manure, compost, peat moss, or other organic mediums and mix well (6 - 8" deep). Level the planting area.

Water with a fine spray over the entire planting area 24 hours prior to transplanting.


Transplanting Seedlings

The best time of day to transplant your seedlings is late afternoon once the hottest part of the day has passed. If transplanting from flats, water the seedlings 1 to 2 hours before beginning the process. Transplanting seedlings is very easy. First dig a hole large enough for one plant. Gently remove the plant from the flat or containers and place in the hole at ground level while trying to retain as much of the root ball in tact as possible. Add soil to firm the area around the plant.

If your seedlings were grown in biodegradable containers, the entire pot can be placed in the hole. Cut slices in the sides of the containers prior to planting so roots will find it easier to grow and spread.

Protect your young plants from the elements. If they become stressed due to too much sun, create a filtered barrier using chicken wire. Place protective collars around the plants to deter cutworms or slugs.

Keep the plants weed-free and provide a cool, moist environment. A two inch layer of organic compost, shredded hardwood, or other organic matter will help to maintain a healthy environment so your plants will flourish into blooms.

Finally, enjoy the rewards of your hard work and intensive nurturing that you and your seedlings have endured over the past several weeks and months. All of your tender loving care will pay you off with gorgeous blooms and bursting color.

Good Luck and Happy Gardening

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